Sensational Sikkim & Breathtaking Bhutan.

Sensational Sikkim and Breath-taking Bhutan
October 2019

India is unexplored fully, even by Indians. It is a highly diverse & beautiful subcontinent, but human nature often takes one back to the same tried and tested places. They may be wonderful, beyond doubt, but one cannot deny the delight in exploring India’s hidden gems by taking the road less travelled.

Together with our friends,our journey to India this time took us to magical Sikkim, an Indian state tucked away in the farthest north east corner of India, bordering Nepal, Tibet, West Bengal and Bhutan. Sikkim lies in the lap of the majestic Himalayas. Vibrantly coloured monasteries hypnotise the senses, as one explores this small remote state with a big heart. Yes, people are warm and helpful, and extremely honest. I accidentally left my purse in our cab. But when I reported it, I was guaranteed I would get it back intact. And I did.

 From Kolkata, a short flight took us to  Bagdogra in North Bengal. From Bagdogra airport our driver navigated our way through the Siliguri district, as the scenery changed dramatically from typical Indian cities, to thick woodlands, then meadows of tea estates, continuing on to panoramic views of super steep valleys and rocky rivers, to the capital of Sikkim, Gangtok.

 At 5,500 ft above sea level (asl), Gangtok itself means “hilltop”. Layered along a precipitous ridge, descending the hillside in steep tiers, the view points from Gangtok rewards the eye with plunging green valleys that remain mystical especially when shrouded in mist. In October, the snow-capped, 3^rd highest peak of the Himalayas, Kanchanjunga, plays hide and seek behind the clouds.

Gangtok is a quaint blend of old and new. For an evening out, locals and tourists alike converge on MG road, the only flat pedestrian walkway, flanked by fancy restaurants, shops and whatever you please.  Gangtok also serves as a base for the traveller exploring Sikkim.

After a restful night in the Grand Silk Route Hotel, we set out the next morning in tourist taxis to Tsomgo Lake, 38 kms away. As we navigated steep and winding mountain roads, the views were mesmerising. Buddhist prayer flags fluttered in the breeze. Wisps of clouds lifted away to reveal spectacular vistas of sweeping valleys and the gushing River Teesta. We took breaks along the way at colourful tea houses nestled in the hillsides, to capture the view with photos, and admire the numerous waterfalls.

Waterfalls, Waterfalls,Waterfalls.

 

 Misty Moments in the highs of Sikkim.

 

 Seven Sisters Waterfall

The Seven Sisters Fall is a mandatory photo stop- a seven tiered waterfall as the name suggests.

At 12,310 ft. asl, the Tsomgo lake is 1 km long, nestled in a valley of the Himalayan foothills. Locals offer rides along the lakeside on big black yaks, adorned with colourful woollens. The Lake derives its waters from streams and melting snow. It lies on the Gangtok- Lhasa trade route between Sikkim and Tibet, is sacred and worshipped by the Sikkimese.

Yaks for a ride along the Tsomgo Lake.

Another 20 kms away is the Nathula pass, 14,200 ft asl in the Tibetan Plateau, and near the border with Tibet. It is among the highest motorable roads in the world. Tourists susceptible to altitude sickness are advised to avoid these heights, but our group heroes made it to the Pass and back, thankfully safe.

A new adventure the next day was our drive to Lachung town, 78 km from Gangtok. Although distances are not great, the winding roads and steep inclines slow one down. But the slow journey only gave us deeper glimpses of the stunning scenery. There is population everywhere, but homes are tucked away in the hillsides. We stopped for lunch at Mangan the capital of North Sikkim. The town is not visible unless one stops and looks up and down the slopes where the buildings are tucked away.  The photo stops, lunch breaks and tea stops gave us amazing views of the mighty Teesta River and the dams and hydroelectric projects along it. The Teesta is also a popular white water rafting destination for the adventurous. It rises in the Eastern Himalayas, flows through Sikkim and West Bengal, into Bangladesh, and out into the Bay of Bengal.

We reached Lachung town after dark, checked into our hotel and were treated to a piping hot meal of chapatti and vegetables (which our taxi drivers had bought from the Mangan market while we were lunching), cooked by the hotel staff.

We awoke the next morning to a whopping view from our window. The steep rocky face of the majestic mountains rose steeply from either side of our hotel, and they were decorated with numerous waterfalls gushing down the rock face.  One spectacular one is named the Amitabh Bacchan falls only because he shot a movie scene here.

Leaving my footprints at Lachung town.

 At 8,610 ft asl, Lachung town is in a valley at the confluence of 2 rocky and rushing tributaries, in the upper reaches of the river Teesta. An enjoyable activity for the morning was a walk down to the river, plus a visit to the Lachung Monastery which has beautiful wall murals and ancient statues. Walking through the colourful bazaar and visiting the carpet weaving center run by local women during the sunny morning was a delight to the senses.

Down by the river in Lachung

About 23 kms further away is the Yumthang Valley, meaning Valley of flowers. At 11,800 ft asl, it is best visited in summer when the myriad of colourful flowers are in full bloom.

Add another 23 kms, at 15,300 ft asl, is Zero Point. This is where the civilian road ends near the China border, literally ‘the end of the road’, hence the name Zero Point. But the rewards are awesome. Three rivers meet here, and snow clad mountains surround you. The oxygen is low here , so once again those of us susceptible to altitude sickness stayed back, while the heroes ventured forth and came back victorious, having conquered Zero Point.

Zero Point

The whole of Sikkim state, due to its proximity to the Chinese, Nepal & Bhutan border, is well secured by the Border Road Organisation, popularly known as BRO.  

They develop and maintain the road network in India’s northern border regions during peacetime, but also work with the army in case of war. It felt safe to travel in Sikkim due to their presence everywhere and their many checkpoints.

Our last day in Sikkim was spent in a homestay just an hour’s drive away from Gangtok. It gave us an insight into how a typical sikkimese family lives. Our host Tonzo, and his family were warm and welcoming.   They smothered us with their hospitality which is typical of the local people wherever we roamed in Sikkim. Like all dwellings in Sikkim, his home is on many levels tucked into a hillside. From our balcony were sweeping views of rice terraces and their farm below , from which came all our vegetables and chicken that were served to us for lunch and dinner. Homemade buckwheat pancakes stuffed with cheese and spinach were the highlight for breakfast.

Tonzo is an artist and adorns his home with his own works, not of just paintings in a frame, but also the walls, the woodwork in the ceilings, door-frames, furniture, screens, etc. with detailed & typical sikkimmese artwork. My favourite was a corner with a sink, where the tap was actually a colourful teapot.

Notice the teapot Tap in the picture.

Tonzo’s artwork.

 For the young and adventurous with more time, North, South, East & West Sikkim states have much more to offer. Numerous mountain treks, paragliding, colourful monasteries, lakes, hill stations, spectacular views of gigantic Buddhist statues situated on hills with commanding views, and so much more in this pristine and mostly unexplored state of India.

Our adventure in Sikkim had come to an end, but our hearts and minds were overflowing  with what we had experienced and explored.

 We drove through the rugged Sikkim landscape towards its border with Bhutan. Most foreign visitors fly into Bhutan. However we chose to drive into this fascinating country.

Via W. Bengal’s vast tea estates, we reached the Indian border city of Jaigaon  where we had to complete Indian immigration exit formalities. Like all other Indian cities, Jaigaon was noisy with continuous honking, littered and congested.  But as we crossed the checkpoint into Bhutan, it was suddenly quiet.  We had arrived in the busy commercial hub of Phuentsholing, but traffic was organised, there were proper pavements to walk on, sufficient street lighting, and there was no honking!!

We checked into our hotel, were introduced to our guide, Tsuji, and then walked with him to complete entry immigration formalities into Bhutan.  They are so trusting that they even allowed us to check into our hotel first before that.  It was nearby, and of course we were accompanied by our guide. Vehicles just stopped courteously for us as we stood on pavements to cross roads…..it was a royal welcome!

For the young and fit traveller, Bhutan is a trekking destination.  Much of Northern Bhutan is on the eastern edge of the Himalayas, and offers amazing challenges for the mountain climber.  However Bhutan’s highest peak the Gangkhar Puensum, at 24,800 ft. is off limits to any mountain climber and remains till today the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Its name means “The white Peak of the 3 Spiritual Brothers” and the Bhutanese believe it best to leave them undisturbed, out of respect for local spiritual beliefs. However there are enough of other peaks for the avid mountain trekker.

Bhutan’s only airport is in the western city of Paro. It is located in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains. As such, only the experienced pilots of Bhutan’s own airlines, Drukair and Bhutan Airlines are allowed to fly in and out of this airport.

Overlooking the forested Paro valley is Bhutan’s most famous landmark, the Tiger’s Nest, or the Taktshang monastery which clings to the face of a rocky cliff. It is incredibly sacred to the Buddhists. Inside is a cave in which the Buddhist Deity who brought Buddhism to Bhutan, meditated for 90 days as he battled the demons that inhabited this valley, in order to spread Buddhism.  It is the birthplace of Buddhism in Bhutan. The temple is over 1000 years old and has survived 2 fires.

The hike up the cliff face to Tiger’s Nest is like a Mecca to most travellers to Bhutan. It’s a difficult climb, some sections are very steep, and it’s about 4.5 km each way. But it’s something to brag about if you have achieved it, no doubt.

Tiger’s Nest, near Paro, Bhutan.

 Thimpu is the largest city in Bhutan, and is its capital, while Punakha remains its old capital, but is still much visited. We visited various temples, monasteries and Dzongs (Fortresses) in all the 3 cities we stayed at.

Dzongs (Fortresses) are Bhutanese architectural masterpieces built in the past to serve a number of purposes. They serve as administrative centers, they house the throne and offices of the King, always has a large temple, and also has accomodation for the clergy. They radiate beauty with grand statues of Buddha, and elaborate paintings on the walls depicting stories of the buddhist culture and history.They were also used as garrisons by the army, and people gathered in the dzong courtyards during festivities, and these activities continue till the present time. Both these points show how religion and politics are interwoven in Bhutan.

 The National Memorial Chorten in the heart of Thimpu City was built and dedicated to world peace. It is an iconic large white structure crowned with a golden spire. Visitors will find elderly Bhutanese people circumambulating the chorten throughout the day. Chorten literally means ‘Seat of Faith”and Buddhists often call such monuments, the ‘Mind of Buddha’. It is an extraordinary example of Buddhist architecture and the artwork inside has intricate sculptures and detailed colourful paintings.

National Memorial Chorten, Thimpu.

 In Thimpu, one must also visit the giant Buddhist statue of Kuensel Phodrang.  This Buddha Statue is a massive golden Shakyamuni Buddha all of 60 mts high, atop a commanding location on a hillside, and can be viewed from afar. It is made of bronze and gilded with gold. Sponsored by a Chinese firm it has taken years to build this monument. The statue is placed on a golden lotus and below it is a meditation hall with 100,000 eight inch and 25,000 twelve inch statues of Buddha. It means that you are viewing not one, but 125,000 Buddha’s at a time. The number of statues outnumbers the population of this small mountain city which is 100,000. It was inaugurated in 2015 to honour the 60th birthday of Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth king of Bhutan (father of the present King). The statue was built to ‘bestow blessings, peace and happiness to the whole world”, a noble thought in these trying times. One can be spiritually uplifted by the peace and sanctity of this temple. We paid our respects within, then stepped out to view the countryside and the open courtyard.

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Kuensal Phodrang Buddha, Thimpu

 Although we are not allowed into the Kings Palace, the Supreme Court and houses of Parliament in Thimpu, Tsuji took us to a hillside location to give us a commanding view of them all. They are all built in the unique architectural style of Bhutan. However we did see the beautiful inside of the Fortress or Dzong in Thimpu.

Inside the Fortress(Dzong) in Thimpu.

detailed artwork inside the dzongs.

Between Thimpu and  Punakha, again on top of a hill, is the Dochula Pass.

Often a violent history and dark times encourage people to create something inspiring and beautiful. The people of Bhutan created the Dochula Pass in honour of 108 Bhutanese soldiers who died in a 2003 millitary operation. At this beautiful mountain pass are 108 memorial stupas known as “Druk Wangyal Chortens”. And from this pass(alt 9000ft), on a clear day in Bhutan, one can see the unclimbed highest mountain peak of Bhutan, the Gangkhar Puensum, and maybe a picturesque view of the snow laden Himalayas.

Gangkhar Puensum (highest unclimbed mountain)

108 Druk Wangyal Chortens at Dochula Pass

Punakha Dzong,built in1637,seat of government until 2nd King. Also known as Palace of Greater Happiness.

The Bhutanese architecture is classic and unique.

The Bhutanese truly love their King, Jigne Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk. He wed his Queen Jetsun Pema, a commoner in 2011 and they have a 4 year old son. Deeply revered by their subjects, beautiful paintings of the royal family are displayed in most temples and on large billboards throughout the country.

The Royal Family.

One of the most important duties of the King is KIDU- a traditonal duty to his subjects. If a student is unable to afford even the free education, or an elderly person requires medical treatment, or a farmer has no land to live on,the citizen can apply to the office of the royal Chamberlain. KIDU officers also travel to every district to collect such applications & identify such people who need help. The King himself goes to remote villages  across the country & stops to speak directly to every subject who needs help.

The  national dress of the men is the Gho, and the ladies wear the Kera.

Bhutan law requires government employees to wear their national dress to work.

The Gho

the Kera.

Bhutan’s many mountanous regions and fast flowing rivers have been tapped to produce much electricity, which accounts for most of its exports,mainly to India. Other exports include spices like cardamom, precious stones and handicraft.

The national dish of the Bhutanese locals is chili peppers with a cheesy sauce.Red rice, buckwheat and corn are staples. They eat pork, beef, yak meat, chicken and lamb, all of which is imported from neighbouring India. Their religion teaches them not to kill, so there are no slaughterhouses in Bhutan. Because of their good relations with neighbouring India, Indian food is widely served everywhere in Bhutan.

Bhutan is south Asia’s least populous nation after the Maldives

Of its 800,000 population, almost half  is involved in agriculture, forestry or consevation. By law, 60% of its land must remain forested, & 40% as national parks; all connected to allow animals to migrate freely throughout the country.

Located on the ancient silk route between Tibet & India, Bhutan has never been colonised & its independence has endured centuries.  It ranks first in economic freedom, ease of doing business, is the least corrupt country in the region, and is the most peaceful. It is also the least developed country, but expects to graduate from this status soon.

Three quarters of the population of Bhutan are Buddhists, and about a quarter are Hindus. Freedom of religion is practised. Their rich and cultural heritage remains intact because of isolation from the rest of the world until the 20th century.

Only in 1999 , the government lifted a ban on TV and the internet, one of the last countries in the world to do so. But warned , that misuse of new technology could erode traditional Bhutanese values.

The King also believed that social media was a critical step to modernization & was a major contributor to Bhutan’s Gross National Happiness Index. However in their religion, happiness seemed to be the abiding sense of inter relatedness with all life forms, and of contentment that lies within the self.  It is related to the calm and peace that Buddhists see from the practice of meditation. In a nutshell, I think their definition of happiness is a sense of contentment .

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As a result, the biggest and noticeable feature of Bhutan is its focus on peacefulness. The locals are astutely polite, soft spoken and genuinely helpful.  They encourage tourists to visit the countryside and monasteries instead of shops, to give them an opportunity to understand the spirit of Buddhism. They believe the closer one is to nature, the cleaner the spirit.

Among other things, it is these sacred values that act as a magnet for tourists.

The country depends much on tourism for it’s revenue, and attracts about 140,000 tourists annually, each of which are required to pay a daily fee of USD 250/- per person per day. Only Indian, Bangladesh and Maldivian nationals are exempted from this fee.

Recent years has seen tourism having an environmental impact on Bhutan’s unique and virtually unspoiled landscape and culture. Thus the local laws have been accordingly restricted. All visitors to Bhutan must travel on planned, prepaid and guided tour packages and all arrangements must be made through officially approved tour operators.Tourists cannot travel independently in the kingdom.

Some amazing facts about Bhutan

First country to switch from the Gross National Product to Gross National Happiness Index, which is achieved through 4 foundations- good governance,preservation of environment, sustainable growth & cultural values. 

There are no traffic lights.

No honking is allowed.

Raising of voices is not allowed, especially near monasteries, dzongs & offices.

It is rude to point with your index finger.

Hunting and fishing is illegal.
Urinating publicly is strictly prohibited.

Smoking & selling tobacco is banned. Violaters can be fined a full months salary which could be about USD 232/-

Plastic is almost not used anywhere.
Purchase of antiques, textiles or ritual objects from locals is prohibited.

Homosexual  acts are illegal.

 Polygamy is accepted (devised to keep property in the family). The former King (father of the present) had 4 queens, all of whom were sisters.

The national sport is archery and darts.

Free healthcare to all citizens and foreign visitors. There are no private practitioners.

It is known as the ‘Land of the Thunder Dragon’ because of violent storms whipping down the valleys from the Himalayas.

Bhutan’s dramatic and varied landscape offers  whispering forests and sweeping plateaus, ranging from sub-tropical plains to steep misty mountains, and valleys where turquoise rivers run.  Its untouched natural beauty exudes peace in this high Himalayan landlocked country. It is indeed a land that intoxicates one into a sense of calm and  serenity. It definitely makes an impact on you. It is a pristine paradise. And it is no wonder that visitors like us have mixed emotions when we leave Bhutan. Either you leave the charm and its happiness behind, or you take it back with you and spread it around. It’s your choice !

We drove out of Bhutan, the same way we went in, through the town of Phuentsholing and into the state of West Bengal in India. Then on to Siliguri district, and to Bagdogra airport to catch our flight home.

I hope my journey to this hidden corner of our beautiful planet will inspire you and others to explore it too.

Shirin Moiz.

Kuala Lumpur.