The Wonder of the Northern Lights

Moiz & I overlooking the fiord outside the Alta Museum

 The Wonder of the Northern Lights.

Our amazing planet Earth has so much to offer the traveller, the adventurer, the tourist, the mountain climber, the diver, the caver, the researcher or the explorer.  Be they man made or natural, the wonders of our planet never cease to allure the human being to the ends of the earth, or endure extremes, to fulfil this yearning to see and learn about them.

Such is that magnetic pull of the Auroroa Borealis, also known as the “Northern Lights”.

Thanks to a recommendation by my brother in law, we chose a Viking cruise as it offered a comfortable way to fulfil this dream.  Our ship, the Viking Sky, was scheduled to cruise from Bergen, sailing northwards along the coast of Norway, towards its Northern Cape and the city of Alta being its northernmost port of call, before we turned around and came back south to disembark in Tilbury, England. Our voyage was titled, “In search of the Northern Lights”,from 25th January to 6th February 2019.

Bergen (1*C – sunrise 9.14am sunset 4.28pm)

Bergen quayside in summer

 Bergen is the 2^nd largest city of Norway.  Nestled among seven mountains, it is the centre for aquaculture, shipping, petroleum industry, higher education, media, tourism and finance. About 300 cruise ships call annually, bringing half a million passengers into the city to delight in its attractions, it’s mountains and fiords including Signe fiord, the country’s longest and deepest.  Today, the quaint Quayside with timbered Hanseatic warehouses and gabled wood buildings coloured rust, red and ochre is on Unesco’s list of World Heritage sites. It was delightful to stroll along here, checking out the arts and crafts, and tasting the local delights at the charming cafes within them.

Bergen Quayside in winter

We boarded our ship nearby the old Quayside. It was already snowing. In a sense it was already preparing us for the colder temperatures that awaited us as we sailed further north.

With a capacity of about 900 passengers, our luxurious liner gave every couple a plush suite with a veranda.  Due to freezing temperatures, it was unlike other summer cruises where one could sunbathe on the deckchair, reading a book.  Instead, in warm comfort, we could still laze on a deckchair near the pool, or sit in dining rooms, or lounges that had floor to ceiling windows, through which we could enjoy the spectacular beauty of Norway’s jagged coastline, dotted and crisscrossed with a labyrinth of channels and fiords, through which we sailed during our 13 day journey. During the long nights, there was music to listen to, stage shows every night, the latest movies to watch, port lectures to prepare us for the each port of call, talks about the history of the Vikings, and most importantly information & slideshows to educate and prepare us for the northern lights that we all had travelled so far to see and hoped to witness.…and guess what?? Free Wi-Fi on board!!!

It was a comfort to know that even while sailing, and if the northern lights were sighted during the long nights by the bridge crew, it would be announced over the PA system.  When this happened, it would give us the opportunity to bundle up and rush up to the top deck to see them.  And if one felt too cold, one could run back indoors, warm up, and come back out to see them again.

We cruised the Norwegian Sea through snow covered idyllic fiord lands, crossing the Arctic Circle, towards Narvik.

Idyllic fiords

Idyllic fiords

Maritime traditions are part of almost every cruise, and the crossing of the Arctic Circle is also an important event.  The staff and crew put together an “Order of the Blue Nose“ ceremony to mark it.

Snowman on board

Guests were invited to make a ‘Polar Plunge’ into a converted hot tub filled with ice-cube-filled freezing water, emerging to be awarded with a blue cream frosting dabbed on their noses, then downing a shot of Norwegian spirit to warm them up.  Staff and guests of all ages took part in this hilariously fun and crazy party, watched and photographed by the rest of us on board.

Narvik (-8*C sunrise 9.39 sunset 2.28pm)

Narvik was our first port of call. When we awoke the next morning, it was still dark and our veranda was snowed up!  And so were the decks of course.  We even had two snowmen on the deck as additional passengers, one fat & one thin ! And they kept us company till the end of our journey.

Snowed up veranda

Fishermen catch cod here for consumption and export.  The ice free waters here allow the search for oil and gas, releasing deposits from under the sea bottom, more than half a mile deep. The Vikings first settled here due to it being an ice free, natural and deep water port.  But it was the discovery of iron ore nearby in the 1870’s that shaped Narvik into a major exporting centre.  A coach tour of the city and around the bay gave us an idea of the beauty and charm within the fiord.

Alta (-14*C sunrise 9.30am sunset 1.50pm)

Our second port of call, Alta rests on the stunning shores of Altafiord.  It is the gateway to some of Europe’s most magnificent natural beauty.  With its frequent clear skies, it’s also an ideal place from which to catch the northern lights. It was completely destroyed in WW2, but the resilient Norwegians rebuilt it. Today it exports oil, gas, iron ore and slate.

The city is most known for its ancient rock carvings dating back as far as 4200BC, important evidence of human activity in the far north in prehistoric times. Since their discovery in 1973, more than 6000 rock etchings have been uncovered, fascinating depictions of hunters, gatherers, rituals, animals and symbols, qualifying it to be Norway’s only primitive UNESCO World Heritage Site. And the Alta Museum, built next to this site, overlooks the scenic Altafiord.

One can also try dog sledding, or go for a reindeer ride in the snow, operated by the Indigenous Sami tribe. The Sami are indigenous people, inhabiting parts of Norway, Sweden, parts of Finland and a small part of Russia. The Norwegian authorities tried to suppress them for 150 years, trying to change their habits. But they survived the oppression and retained their culture. Today they are respected as a recognised minority,  freely practise their own language, and their traditional habits of fishing, farming, herding reindeer, etc. for their livelihood.

the Sami in their indigenous attire

Entrance to Igloo Hotel

For the more adventurous, one can go on an exhilarating snowmobile ride with a vehicle all to yourself, provided you own a valid driver’s license.

 

We had to see the much advertised Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel, where everything inside and outside is made of snow and ice. It was their 20^th year in operation.   It takes 30 ice artists 5 weeks to build it every year, with blocks of ice from a nearby lake when it freezes every winter.  It opens for business in January, and melts away in March.

Bed in Igloo Hotel

There are about 40 little rooms and suites, each with a theme which is carved out on the walls and bedheads.  Beds are made of solid blocks of ice covered with reindeer skin; and guests sleep in heavy duty sleeping bags on them.  In the halls are life-size figures carved out of ice, where dinner parties and fashion shows take place, and there is a chapel for weddings! A bar counter made of ice slabs is where one can have a drink served in a largish ice cubes hollowed out to hold the liquid – drink it quickly before the drink freezes too! And it’s minus 10*C inside and outside the hotel. Crazy or what?  And yes you wanted to know I’m sure….toilets are in the main reception area which is a separate wooden building with a warm fireplace, and a dining room.

Many, we hear, after paying so much (its USD300/- p.p.), can’t sleep in their rooms, and end up catching naps in the warm reception area.

A drink in the Igloo Hotel- in an ice cube

Alta is surrounded by unspoilt natural beauty. Pristine woodlands spill into the stunning Altafiord, which stretches some 24 miles.  North of Alta lies remarkable wilderness, where the Alta Elva River has carved out Sautso Canyon, the largest in Northern Europe – all this best explored in the summer.

 One of Alta’s most striking sights is not natural at all – the Cathedral of the Northern Lights.  This boldly designed building in the heart of the city, is a vision in titanium, its circular exterior spirals upwards, paying tribute to the natural display of the spiral twists and twirls of the northern lights itself.

Cathedral of the Northern Lights

It was but natural to attempt a search for the northern lights in Alta.

 It was 9pm when we boarded our coach with 40 others, which would take us an hour away from the city lights, to a popular spot, about 1000 metres above sea level. With commanding views, the show would be great. It was bitterly cold and dark, - 16*C. The glow from a log fire inside a Sami Tent was welcoming. A cottage beside it, also welcomed us while we waited for the lights to show. All the conditions were perfect except for one – it was a cloudy night.  But expectations were high and we all hoped the cloud layer would lift.  But it didn’t, and after a couple of hours, with great disappointment, we all trooped into the coach and were taken back to the warmth of our cruise ship.

Tromso (-10*C sunrise 9.30am sunset 2.25pm)

 Our next port of call was Tromso, west of Alta, almost on the same latitude, and best known as the gateway to the Arctic.

Human settlement in the Tromso area dates back thousands of years, though the city itself was founded only about 200 years ago.  Its location near the coast and warming effect of the Gulf Stream, gives it a milder climate and Tromso easily became the center for trapping in the Arctic region, and in the early 1900’s it became the starting point for expeditions to the Arctic..

The Sami population is large here, second to Oslo. As a result, their reindeer herds freely roam here, sometimes even blocking traffic! Moose also thrive here and are often seen roaming around the edge of the city. 

The city’s historic centre, on the island of Tromso is distinguished by its century’s old wooden houses.  The 1965 Arctic Cathedral, with its distinctive peaked roof and soaring stained glass windows, dominates the skyline. A coach tour from the island, across the bridges, gives one a great overview of this lovely city. Like the rest of the country, we are surrounded by stunning views of fiords and mountains. The city centre itself was just beside the dockside where our ship was berthed, so a little walk around it was the best thing to do.

Tromso Arctic Cathedral

 Tromso is also famed as another viewing point for the colourful northern lights that light up the night-time sky, during the long dark nights of winter.

As soon as we could, we booked another tour to catch the elusive lights from here, and kept our fingers crossed.

This time we left at 7.30 pm, for a one and a half hour drive away from the city. Our guide was very helpful with setting & adjusting our cameras, and handing out tripods and protective jumpsuits to whoever needed them. He promised that he would take photos of us and the lights with his professional equipment, and that we need not freeze our fingers if we took our gloves off to snap a photo.

 Upon reaching our remote campsite, a log fire was already blazing in the Sami tent to keep us warm while we waited.  While a scout kept watch outside, we roasted sausages and bread over the fire, accompanied by roasted veggies wrapped in tortillas, and even crepes for dessert.

 Precisely when the lights make their quiet yet dramatic appearance is unpredictable.

 The snow outside was deep, the silence deeper. We were some 190 miles north of the Arctic Circle, and the temperature was a frigid -16* C.

 This time the conditions looked perfect.  It was dark & cloudless, the stars were shining, and we were far away from light pollution. The scout gave the signal, and we rushed out.

They first appeared as a wisp of a grey cloud across the sky from horizon to horizon, and then increased in intensity.  Within seconds it swirled into spirals and whirlpools, twisting and swaying, like the folds of fabric twirling in the wind. They were dancing curtains of light fluttering in the sky.

To the human eye there is not much colour, except for some light pink and blue that I saw.  But through my camera lens, the colours appeared brilliantly.

They were fluorescent green, purple and pink ribbons on a backdrop of a dark starry night, like soft strokes of a painters brush. It was mesmerising and magical, surreal and humbling.

It was exhilarating, a feeling of elation, almost as if we ourselves were soaring into space, uplifted with our excitement. It was astral splendour.

Astral splendour of the lights

Sami Tent in which we waited around a log fire

This first sighting was just a wisp- notice the stars

Like soft strokes of a painters brush

The show went on for almost half an hour, and because the crisp winter air was biting gently on our cheeks, we would escape into the tent, warm up and come out again, trying not to miss a second of the show.

We could not believe we had seen the Aurora Borealis!

We had witnessed a wondrous phenomenon.

We saw the greatest show on earth.

We felt so blessed, and thankful.

As we headed back to our cruise ship after midnight, we felt as if we were in a dream. It would take a while to absorb it and realise that it was not a dream. Wait… we had photos to prove it was NOT a dream.

We sailed away from Tromso the next day. The sunset was at about 2.30pm and it was already very dark by 3pm. It was a sea day and we were cruising not too far away from the coast heading south.

Lo and behold, at about 4.30pm, the first ever sighting announcement from the ship came on the PA system that the northern lights had been sighted from the bridge.

Naturally we all rushed to the top deck for another chance to witness this wonder.  Once again these wisps of cloud stretched across the sky, twisting and twirling, appearing and disappearing for a period of almost 6 hours that night. It was an added bonus for us.

There were a few days at sea that passed easily because there was so much to do on board. The Jacuzzi was a wonderful way to relax. There was a steam and sauna room and for the first time, we were introduced to a snow grotto within the spa. Yes a small cold room,( the size of a regular steam or sauna) with real snow in it. With these four, one has to alternate a hot & cold treatment among the hot tub, sauna, steam or snow. Cool eh?

Moiz in the snow grotto

There were 2 gourmet restaurants to choose from, buffet and sit down dining rooms, a pool grill, and English afternoon tea by the poolside every day, and small cafes dotted around the ship. Wherever you were, someone would surely come by and check if you needed anything.  The service was impeccable. There was a library, games and quizzes to participate in, or just relax and read your book, or standby to take photos…the scenery was so incredible, you didn’t want to miss a good shot.

We cruised southwards in the Norwegian Sea, best known for its bounty of seafood it has provided since medieval times. Today it is enjoyed fresh and flaky, a far cry and more delicious than the dried and preserved fish made by the early Norwegians.  But another product from these famously cold waters goes largely overlooked. As far back as the Viking age, locals extracted salt from the surf by reducing the seawater over an open flame.   Today, harvesters produce a massive volume of Norwegian Sea salt on the pristine shores of Norway. Their artisan methods coax salt from the sea much as the Vikings did, via a rigorous process of crystalizing, rinsing and drying.

We had sailed far south for 2 days, so the temperature was more comfortable now, and the days slightly longer.

We passed the Arctic Circle again. As it was daylight when we passed this imaginary line, the captain slowed down the ship for us to see a marker on a small island off the coast.

Arctic Circle Marker

Stavanger (4*C sunrise 8.45am sunset 4.58pm)

 Our final port of call, Stavanger is a city in southwestern Norway. Here the land is flatter and the landscape not as dramatic as what we had seen in the rest of the country.  In the centre of town, the Stavanger Cathedral dates back to the city’s 12^th century founding.  The Norwegian Petroleum Museum illuminates the oil industry. Offshore oil and gas was discovered in 1969, after which a period of hectic growth followed.  Today Stavanger is labelled the Oil capital of Norway.

A historical site worth a visit is “Swords in Rock”, a monument built to commemorate a historic battle which took place in the year 872, when the King gathered all of Norway under one crown.  The three bronze swords stand 10 meters tall and are planted into a large rock next to the fiord. It represents peace since, being planted into solid rock, they will never be removed.

Bronze Swords

Stavanger is also home to one of Europe’s most interesting Old Towns.  The cobblestone streets are lined with the continent’s highest concentration of wooden buildings that date back to the 17^th and 18^th centuries. And from the deck of our ship, we had a bird’s eye view of this charming locality right beside the harbour.

17th & 18th century wooden houses

We disembarked a day later, sad to end our holiday, but delighted to have achieved what we had set out to do. Armed with blessings and luck from everyone we knew, we were convinced the Almighty would not let us down. After all it was He who created this wonder for us to see.

Some facts about the Auroras:

The Aurora is the handiwork of electricity charged particles ejected from the sun.  Bursting through space at 2 million miles per hour, they are caught by the earth’s magnetic field, which funnels them into the upper atmosphere near the north and south poles, where they stimulate the auroral display.

In the North Pole, they are known as the Aurora Borealis, while at the South Pole they are known as the Aurora Australis.

Colours vary based on the conditions present when they collide, at what speed, at what altitude, and with which element e.g. oxygen or nitrogen. Green appears typically about 60 miles above the earth’s surface – the closest and thus the most commonly visible to the human eye. Blue, purple and violet tones materialise more than 60 miles above the earth’s surface, thus less visible. And red appears only more than 150miles in altitude, thus the rarest colour to be seen from the earth’s surface.

The human eye rarely detects these colours because of the distance. They are feint and far. Strangely, they look white or grey to the human eye, but through a camera lens, they are brilliantly green, sometimes touched with pink or purple.

The best time to view the aurora borealis is during the northern winter during the end of the year.

The best time to view the aurora australis is during the southern winter in the middle of the year. 

There have been many legends associated with the northern lights over the ages.  Some believed they were the souls of dead maidens, while others believed they were magical fire foxes scampering across the horizon. A  celestial bridge of fire to  the sky was another belief, or maybe the spirits of ancestors dancing in the heavens.

In  1896 a Norwegian Physicist , Kirstin Birkland, was the first to prove that the aurora were electrons streaming from the sun and steered to the poles.

In the 1950’s, extensive research only explored this theory.

Only in the early 21^st century were scientists able to prove what actually causes the Auroras.

Astronauts on board the international Space Station, which orbits our planet at an altitude of between 205 and 270 miles, have front row seats to this magnificent light show.

And if you are flying over the north pole from New York to Tokyo for example, if it’s dark and cloudless, and if you happen to be NOT sleeping and decide to open your window at the right time and look down, and if you are on the right side of the aircraft, yes, you may be lucky enough to view this amazing show of lights!!

Hope you enjoyed reading about our adventure. And, if you haven’t already, we hope you too will see these amazing lights someday.

Shirin Moiz